Hello Vancouver

Vancouver is a stunningly beautiful city thanks to its location between the mountains and the sea. The vibe in Vancouver is different to the eastern seaboard old-world. It's a Pacific city. My first thought on seeing the modern trends manifest was that the Californian new-agers had moved here.

The Canadian is one of the world's great rail journeys and I had seen marvelous landscapes and met diverse folk. Bear in mind that you can't spend all your time looking out the window, and you miss stretches at night. I wouldn't ride the epic 4466 km again even if free—once suffices. West is the better direction as the best mountainscapes are near the end. But you could also visit the Rockies by taking a tour from Vancouver.

It took me a while to find the bus stop for the service to my hostel what with construction and relocation. The minibus service ran along Pacific Street skirting the harbour. I could understand why Vancouver is a favoured bolt-hole for cashed up Asians seeing the blocks of high-rises with grand views. I was staying at a hostel because everywhere in Canada hotel rooms are expensive. Even Airbnb is expensive.

I checked in and had a late lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant. It was authentic and filling.

I spent the afternoon doing my laundry, another thing not available in most hotels. I went to an op shop and donated my old cold weather jacket. I'm unlikely to need one again in the near future, and also it was necessary because one of the later flights in my itinerary had a bottleneck of 15 kg checked luggage.

One advantage of the hostel location in the West End was nearby Davie Street with lots of eateries.

Arrival in Montreal

I thought hard about whether to begin my Canada rail journey in Montreal or Toronto. Against was the fact that the Canadian departs Toronto heading westwards to Vancouver so Montreal was not a requisite stop. For was a friend in Montreal who I am unlikely to meet again in life, given that I'm unlikely to visit Canada again. In the end I decided to take the Montreal stopover and ride Viarail from Montreal to Toronto.

Montréal–Trudeau airport was unremakable. The last time I was in Montréal, Mirabel was the international airport, and I see that it was only for a period. I caught the shuttle bus to the city, getting off near the Saint-Lo hostel.

Montréal instantly reminded me of New York with its wide avenues, but especially the tarmac cracked by ice in winter. The last time through I saw mostly the old city which is more charming than the modern one.

Looking for dinner, I happened upon a hamburger joint that offered poutine, a Quebec specialty. I'm willing to eat most things once, and I don't think I'll hanker to try it again. Not that it was hard to stomach, but I just don't feel that curds go with fries.

I had forgotten that in Canada, like the US, taxes are in addition to the menu price, varies by province, and a tip is expected if served at a restaurant.

On the way back I stopped at a supermarket to get some bottled water. Canadian prices are higher than Australian prices which in turn are above European prices.

The hostel was good but I like more privacy these days. It was again the high prices that made me opt for hostel accommodation in Montréal and Vancouver. In Toronto I had no choice but an expensive Airbnb. On the Canadian I had a sleeper bunk and it was all prepaid.